Green is good

22 March 2010

There is an Italian restaurant off Pimlico Road in London that sits squarely in the old-school. It has a nouveau Milano-type décor with black, white, red leather, and a Sloane ranger-type clientele that matches. The staff are brusque, noisy, and not that nice, unless you’ve ordered the most expensive wine on the list. In the fall and winter, a halfway amiable Godfather stalks about with the truffle box. Opening his precious case and shoving it inches from your nose seconds before snapping it shut again, he tells you to order fresh, hand-cut pasta with butter and parmesan and that he will grate some of the truffle over it for you. He’s the nicest fellow in the joint. But if you have to ask the price for the pleasure of his truffles, you can’t afford it.

The restaurant does have other pleasures, one of which is more surprising. My friends had ordered deep-fried spinach. I expected something like a cheese stick from Chili’s but filled with green stuff instead, which sounded kind of gross. Rather, the greens arrived at our table looking—much like the restaurant’s clientele—curiously gravity-defiant, leaves’ edges curling up this way and that. There was no crust or oozing, and in response to a fork, the spinach shattered. It did the same thing against the roof of my mouth. It was weightless and earthy and ephemeral and I had to have more. I went back the following week. And probably the week after that.

But I don’t live in London any longer, I don’t deep fry at home, I still can’t afford white truffles, and it’s not the season anyway. Kale chips are as trendy as green veg gets (who knew?), similar to my beloved fritte spinaci, but better somehow, more briny. It’s a lot of green that doesn’t cost a lot.

Crispy cavolo nero

You can find a recipe for this anywhere. Either cook the kale for a long time at a low temperature, or for a short time at a high temperature. I’m impatient, and therefore prefer the latter.

1 bunch kale, Tuscan or otherwise  |  extra virgin olive oil  |  sea salt

Heat oven to 400.

Wash kale well. Dry thoroughly, and cut or tear into chip-like shapes of the same approximate size, discarding the thickest bits of ribs. Toss with a very small amount of olive oil, and when the oven is hot, heat until crispy and a little bit translucent, 5-10 minutes. Watch carefully, or you’ll burn them every time like I do (though they’ll still be good).  Sprinkle with sea salt. Serve as an amuse-gueule or aforementioned fancy garnish for soup or polenta.

Serves 4-6. Or 1. They’re addictive.

{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Charles March 22, 2010 at 21:43

That’s my favo(u)rite so far! Thanks for posting.

Reply

ann clark March 23, 2010 at 18:04

Hi! This looks delicious, love the idea of the crispy green. Will try it soon. Thanks!

Reply

me March 24, 2010 at 10:04

Yay! Let me know what you think!

Jo Ann Cope Powell March 29, 2010 at 11:05

That’s so easy! It sounds so good! It’s so Weight-Watchers healthy! I can’t believe it!

Reply

me March 30, 2010 at 08:26

Re: unbelievable. I totally agree! I was super suspicious before trying them.

Jen March 29, 2010 at 13:22

I can’t wait to try it! I love Kale but have had no idea to cook it. Looking forward to it!

Reply

me March 30, 2010 at 08:17

I hope you like them!

Julia April 1, 2010 at 12:43

Since my cooking skills are not the greatest but I really wanted to try this recipe, I asked a friend if she would try making this for me for my birthday. The first batch was a little too oily, the second batch was a little too overcooked, the third batch was BLISS!!!!! It took less than 15 minutes to produce 3 batches and now that she knows how, I want MORE! They were fantastic and totally addictive, just like you promised. Thank you so much for this wonderful super food super delicious treat.

Reply

me April 20, 2010 at 09:24

I’m so glad you liked them!

Ginny April 20, 2010 at 08:15

I am blown away about how knowledgeable you are about cooking, ingredients and how to put them all together WITHOUT an exact recipe! Your blog makes me wish I had a personal chef because I can’t (and won’t) even cook with a recipe! All I do is read cookbook after cookbook (like reading fiction), sigh, and wish someone would make me some of those fabulous dishes… I have an idea! Why don’t you open a restaurant (preferably in South Carolina). I guarantee I’ll be your best customer!

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